Cross-on with head to logo waves
Simmer 5.3 with No limits Sumo
Fanatic Quad 94 with Black Project 15/8
5.30am my wife gets ready for work, hair drier alarm clock.
9.38am the last screw goes into my new shed that Ive been building. The wind was forecast for 2.30pm so i had 4 hours 58 minutes to fill.
1 hour on the Internet. Sites included.
xcweather.com
magicseaweed.com
surfmatic.com (one of my current favourite)
marinelayerproductions.com (my favourite)
dirtmagazine.com
2 hours chopping wood.
1 hour 58 minutes standing about, admiring shed, moving kit about in shed, more standing about, general pontification and finally the drive to Fresh.
We don't really get good jumping conditions down here so it was quite refreshing to see that the sand banks off the back of the reef had moved about in all the swell we have had and dumped about 200 yards out to sea.
I rigged and scrambled my way down the cliff to middle reef. I need to work on my backloops as they are frustratingly inconsistent. First one around but dropped the rig, second one s**t, third one dialled, fourth one dialled. Then as per usual the next 15 or so were terrible looped out or under rotated efforts. The last 3 perfect.. Koesta makes smashing out 50 footers look so easy from my arm chair..
Again it was a late solo session bar one of Pembs most committed surfers. This fella loves surfing so much he don't care whether its 2 foot onshore gash or 8 foot offshore top to bottom barrels, he will surf it all in his own little way. He is a bit of an inspiration in a weired way as if you met him he's not really what you would expect. It always cracks me up talking windsurfing with him as he just don't get it. That's why i like him.
Fingers crossed for tomorrow, looks like we might get back to some proper DTL on the Slabs out East..
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